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Altai republic Photos by: Adrian Dumbleton Gerald Maier Christian Rakvaag
In early 2006, i decided to take part in a volunteer research project and give some of my time and energy back into the environment, preferably in an unusual and adventurous part of the world. I've always had a keenness for Russia and Central Asia and the chance came up to go back to the area, notably the Altai mountain region sitting in an "X" between Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan and China. After toying with the idea of going to China with Earth watch institute, work commitments made me pick the Biosphere Expeditions project "Altai Snow Leopards" instead. The project was a highly challenging endeavour in some of the highest peaks in Asia, and involved looking for tracing of the elusive snow leopard and its prey species. Most days involved surveying valleys and mountain ridges, for tracks and scat and possibly even visual sightings of prey. Due to the limited numbers of leopard in Central Asia, the chances of actually seeing such an animal was rather slim. The work on the project was helping towards conserving the animals in the Altai republic, a small constituent republic of the Russian federation. Joining a group of a dozen or so international members from diverse countries, UK, US and Norway, with me being the sole participant from NZ. Flying into Russia's 3rd largest city, Novosibirsk on the dodgy and antiquated Tupolev 154 of S7 airlines so close after a fatal crash of an S7 Tu 154 was a somewhat worrying but ultimately ok experience!
Novosibirsk is a fairly industrial city, nestled on the banks of the mighty Ob river (3700kms long) and the 'capital' of the vast Siberia region of Russia. It has an attractive centre with cafes and an opera house. From our rendezvous we embarked on a 1000km drive south to the Altai in our 4 Landrover Defenders (courtesy of sponsorship by LR). The first 400 or so kms, was a drive near the Ob and across vast plains of pastoral land or Taiga. Stopping for breaks at roadside markets, eating shashlik or bliney (pancakes), it was in all a massive drive to the Altai frontier. The antics of the local drivers who were obviously insane, were entertaining to the passengers but no doubt stressful to the drivers!
(C.R 2006) Statues in Novosibirsk Arriving at the Altai frontier, the landscape immediately changed to mountainous and heavily forested with swiftly flowing rivers and intricately constructed log cabins. The Altai is a popular holiday area for Russians and it showed with plentiful cabins and many people camping on the riversides. Our overnight stop was a log cabin at Anoz. Heading south we drove another 500km through winding mountain roads and across saddles. Some incredible scenery was encountered and if you looked closely you could identify areas seen in the popular doco "Long Way Round".
Views from the M52 highway (Novosibirsk to Mongolia)
M52 views (C.R. 2006)
Expeditions vehicles in convoy view from rest stop
local house Gassing up Vehicle line-up
Heading south rest stop The further south we drove the more rugged the landscape got. Mountains were less forested and more rocky. Even the food changed from the more European food of the north to the central Asian staples of Plov and spicy kazak soup. Eventually the landscape turned a lot more Mongolian with wide steppe reminiscent of Tibet in places. After a 12 hour or me trip on and off-road, we made our base camp in a wooded valley surrounded by alpine peaks.
Views from near base camp Base camp valley
Ground Squirrel Cloud shadows Most of our days started with an early breakfast made by our excellent Russian cook Nina, and then a fairly long but exciting trip off-road through the steppe and across rivers to a survey point. Several team members, myself and C.R included undertook and off-road driving course and were able to get stuck in transporting team members. The landrovers performed far higher that expected with virtually no moments of loss of traction. Thou i have to say, our Russian guides pushed the English 4wds to the limit. How fast can you drive a Landrover off-road? !! The next part would involve trekking high into the mountains and up ridges, summiting over 3000m, looking for traces and then descending ragged scree slopes back towards the vehicles. After a nice drive home, we would set up for a tasty dinner and several, well many vodkas or local beers around the campfire.
2950m summit Landrovers enroute to survey sites
loss of traction across the river
The other side the far horizon
(C.R 2006)
River convoy Yurt first climb
(C.R 2006) the easy way down?(G.M 2006)
Summit views Base camp yurt On slack days we could either survey in the woods near the camp or on the floodplains to the north. On one particular trip we able to see ancient graves that were more than 2000 years old. Another trip involved a drive to sacred springs and then too several local yurts whose owners were known to the expedition leaders. Shown amazing hospitality by the locals we were offered a wealth of local food, kazak bread, yoghurt, tea, and cheese plus the ever present vodka!
Base camp sunset View from gravesites Valley stitch
Steppe cemetery Local boy
the flock Yurt feed
Some more tea?! (C.R 2006)
locals Tessa, expedition chief guard dog
inside a yurt skiing Norwegian style Keen eye of the explorer! Strategizing (G.M)
Glacial lakes near the frontier Scree slopes As part of the expeditions smaller groups were able to set off on a mini expedition, 2 days long, with suitable transport, and camping away from base camp. On our trip, a group of 3, expedition leader and 2 scientists, set off to the area surrounding the argali valleys. We trekked to glacial lakes in freezing weather really showing us how quickly weather in alpine environments can changes. Setting up camp after we had a great dinner and spent our evening soaking up heat around the campfire.
Snowy morning mini expedition Driver seat
Landrover promotional shots?? A man and his Landrover!
Hogging the fire at campsite (G.M) Heading home (G.M)
End of expedition celebrations
Biosphere expeditions Altai Snow Leopards Team 3 and friends
Ivan & Roman,Support staff Tessa and James
Happy expedition crew Heading home on our 1000km drive
Heading north back to Novosibirsk
Crazy roads in Russia! Warning to local drivers(G.M) war memorial
All in all, the expedition was an amazing experience, and although not seeing too much sign of our target animal, we helped contribute to its survival, saw some incredible landscape and made some great friends.Thanks to all the team members for making such an enjoyable and memorable trip.
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